Basic Tools Every Household Should Own
- TaskTreasury Team
- Jun 28
- 7 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
A hundred-piece toolkit in a moulded plastic case looks like preparedness and is mostly packaging. Half the pieces are sockets you will never fit to anything, the screwdriver handles are too short to apply real force, and the one tool you reach for every month is the tape measure.
The honest number for a household starting from nothing is about twelve items, plus a handful of consumables. That covers hanging things, assembling flat-pack, tightening what has come loose, unblocking what is blocked, and taking apart most household objects far enough to see what is wrong. Everything beyond twelve should be bought at the moment you first genuinely need it, because that is the only reliable signal about what your particular home demands.
The twelve that do almost all the work
A claw hammer, around 16 ounces
Driving and pulling nails, tapping things into alignment, knocking dowels into flat-pack panels. Sixteen ounces, roughly 450 grams, is the standard general-purpose weight: heavy enough to drive a nail in a few strikes, light enough to control. A fibreglass handle absorbs shock better than cheap wood and will not loosen.
A ratcheting screwdriver with a bit set
This replaces the six loose screwdrivers most people own and lose. The ratchet means you never release and re-grip, which matters in a cramped cupboard. Make sure the bit set includes Phillips 1 and 2, Pozidriv 1 and 2, flat blades around 4mm and 6mm, and a range of Torx. Pozidriv is the one people miss: it looks like Phillips with extra fine lines between the arms, it is very common on European fittings and furniture, and a Phillips bit chews the screw head.
A cordless combi drill
The single biggest capability jump in any toolkit. It drills holes and drives screws, and with hammer action it goes into masonry, which matters if any of your walls are brick or concrete. An 18 volt model from a mainstream brand is the sensible default; a 12 volt is lighter, cheaper and genuinely enough for a flat with plasterboard walls. Buy the version with two batteries, and check it has an adjustable clutch, the numbered ring behind the chuck that stops you driving a screw through a cabinet back.
A drill bit set
A drill with the wrong bits is decoration. You need three families: HSS twist bits for metal and wood, wood bits with a small point at the tip, and masonry bits with a visibly chunky tip for brick and concrete. A set covering roughly 3mm to 8mm handles most jobs. When hanging something on masonry, the bit diameter matches the wall plug, not the screw.
A 5 metre tape measure
The most used tool in most homes, and worth spending slightly more on. A 25mm wide blade stays rigid when extended, which lets you measure a gap on your own without the tape folding over. Five metres, about sixteen feet, reaches across any normal room. A lock that actually holds is the feature that separates a good one from a frustrating one.
A detector for cables, pipes and studs
The only item on this list with genuine safety stakes. Drilling into a live cable or a water pipe turns a five-minute job into an emergency. A basic multi-detector flagging live wiring, metal and timber studs costs less than most people expect. Scan, mark, and scan again in a cross pattern, since readings drift. Treat the zones directly above, below and beside sockets and switches as always suspect, because that is where cables run.
An adjustable spanner, about 8 inches
For nuts and bolts where you do not own the matching size, which is nearly always. Eight inches, roughly 200mm, is the useful middle: it opens far enough for a tap connector and is still manoeuvrable under a sink. The jaws should close with minimal wobble, because a sloppy adjustable spanner rounds off bolt heads.
Two pairs of pliers
Combination pliers for gripping, twisting and cutting wire, and long-nose pliers for anything in a tight space or too small for fingers. If you want a third, water pump pliers, sometimes called groove-joint pliers, open wide enough to grip a plumbing fitting, and are the tool most people wish they had the first time a tap leaks.
A utility knife
Opening boxes, cutting carpet, scoring sealant, trimming plastic. A retractable snap-off blade knife is cheap and always sharp, because you snap off the dull segment. A blunt blade is the main cause of knife injuries, since it needs force and slips. Retract it the moment you put it down.
A spirit level, 600mm
Shelves, pictures, curtain poles, appliances that rock. Six hundred millimetres, about two feet, spans enough to be meaningful without being awkward to store. Check any level in the shop by placing it on a surface, noting the bubble, then rotating it end for end; the reading should be identical.
An Allen key set, metric and imperial
Flat-pack furniture, bicycles, taps, door handles, radiator valves. Folding sets are convenient, but individual L-shaped keys give far more leverage on a tight bolt, and ball-ended long keys make assembling furniture in a corner much less painful. Yes, the furniture comes with its own key, and yes, it will be lost by the second house move.
A torch, ideally a head torch
Under sinks, in loft hatches, behind appliances, at the fuse board, and during a power cut. A head torch is better than a hand torch for repairs for the obvious reason that repairs need two hands. Buy one that takes a common battery type or charges by USB and keep it somewhere you can find in the dark.
The consumables that make the tools useful
None of these are tools, and all of them stop a job dead when missing. Keep a small box with the following and top it up when you notice a gap.
Assorted wood screws in a few lengths, and a box of mixed wall plugs
Picture hooks and self-adhesive hooks rated for a stated weight
PTFE tape for sealing threaded plumbing joints, which costs almost nothing and fixes many drips
Duct tape and electrical insulating tape, which are not interchangeable
Superglue, a general-purpose adhesive, and sandpaper in coarse and fine grades
Cable ties, assorted AA and AAA batteries, and spare fuses if your plugs are fused
Safety glasses, work gloves and a dust mask, which cost little and prevent the injuries most likely to happen at home
The second tier: buy when you hit the need
These are genuinely useful, but buying them before you need them is how a cupboard fills with unused equipment. Each one has a clear trigger.
A sink plunger and a drain auger, the first time something backs up. A cup plunger for sinks, a flanged one for toilets.
A hardpoint handsaw or a Japanese-style pull saw, the first time you need to shorten timber. A pull saw cuts on the pull stroke, tracks straighter and is easier for a beginner.
A three-step stepladder, when you have ceilings you cannot reach safely. Standing on a dining chair is a leading cause of household falls during DIY.
A socket set, the first time you deal with a bolted assembly such as a bed frame or a bicycle.
A filling knife and a tub of filler, when you first patch a wall.
A mains socket tester or a non-contact voltage pen, if you want reassurance around electrics. Neither authorises you to do wiring work, which in many places is legally restricted.
What goes wrong
The most common mistake is buying the case rather than the tools. Large budget sets spread the money thinly across dozens of items, so every one is mediocre, and the pieces you use weekly wear out first. A poor tool does not merely work slowly, it damages the thing you are working on: soft bits round out screw heads, a loose adjustable spanner chews nuts, and cheap masonry bits go blunt and simply polish the hole.
The second failure is scattering. Tools that live in three places are tools you cannot find, so the job never starts. One box, one location, everything returned at the end of the job rather than left where it was used.
The third is skipping the detector. It is the item people leave off the list because it feels optional, and it is the one that prevents the genuinely expensive accident. If you buy nothing else on this page, buy that before you buy a drill.
The fourth is not knowing where the toolkit stops. Gas work, consumer unit work and most fixed wiring are jobs for a qualified and often legally certified person. The right use of these twelve tools is to diagnose accurately, fix what is genuinely simple, and describe the rest precisely to whoever you call.
If you rent, or have very little space
Renters can use every tool here, but holes usually have to be made good when you leave. Adhesive hooks with a stated weight rating handle a surprising amount, and tension rods hold curtains without drilling. When you do drill, note the positions, keep a small tub of filler, and repair the holes before the final inspection. Check the tenancy agreement first, since many permit small fixings and simply require them filled.
In a small flat, the whole kit fits into one canvas tool bag or a shallow box under a bed. The two bulky items are the drill and the level, which is a good reason to prefer a 12 volt drill and a 600mm level. Skip the stepladder for a folding two-step that stores behind a door, and skip the handsaw, since most timber yards will cut to size for you.
If grip strength, pain or mobility is a factor, the choices shift. A lighter 12 volt drill does most household jobs at a fraction of the weight. A ratcheting screwdriver with a fat cushioned handle needs far less wrist rotation, and a right-angle attachment removes awkward postures. For anything overhead, a telescopic pole attachment or asking someone else is the sensible answer, since work at height is where the serious injuries happen.
Households with children or pets should treat storage as part of the purchase. A latched box kept high or locked matters most for the knife, the drill bits and the adhesives, and battery tools should be stored with the battery detached.
Buy the twelve, use them for a year, and let your own house tell you what the thirteenth should be. That order produces a toolkit worth owning, rather than a case worth storing.
If you want structure around actually getting the jobs done rather than just owning the kit, TaskTreasury runs focused sessions on real-life tasks and pays out Treasury Credits when you finish them.
Comments